31. Apple Jelly

I've been wanting to make jelly for a while now, and with apples still very much in season in January, it feels like the perfect opportunity to do so. Apple jelly is such a good accompaniment to some of the heartier roasted meats of the cold winter months, and is brilliant when mixed into gravies and sauces. I used golden apples for this recipe, but I think using a variety of tart and sweet apples would work well too.

Apple Jelly

Makes 3 small jars

2kg Golden apples

1.5kg water

1 cinnamon stick

1 star anise

6-7 whole cloves

about 900g caster sugar

about 30g lemon juice

Chop your apples up into small pieces. No need to peel or core your apples: the pips are what provide the pectin needed to set your jelly. Add to a large casserole with your water and spices. Bring to a boil and cook for 30-40 minutes until your apples are cooked through but still hold their shape. Pour your fruit and juice into a scalded jelly bag (or a fine sieve lined with muslin cloth) set over a medium sized bowl and leave to drain overnight.

The following day, measure your juice out into a large casserole**. Add roughly two thirds the weight of your liquid in sugar as well as one tsp of lemon juice for every 200g of apple juice rendered. I ended up with 1.4kg of liquid so I added 900g of caster sugar and 6tsp of lemon juice. Heat gently until your sugar has dissolved.

Meanwhile, prepare your jars by removing any seals and popping the jars on a baking tray with their lids. Put the whole lot into a cold oven and turn it on to 110ºC. Bake for a minimum of 30 minutes. Sterilise any seals and equipment (ie. ladle, funnel, what have you's) by boiling them for 20-30 seconds.

On a high heat, bring your jelly to a boil and cook until your temperature reaches setting point (about 104ºC) or passes the wrinkle test. For the latter you'll need to place a plate in the freezer while you're waiting for your jelly to boil. When you're jelly reaches it's setting point, drop a teaspoonful onto your cold plate and return it to the freezer for a minute. Test by pushing the jelly with your finger: if it wrinkles, it's ready. Skim any white scum off the surface, ladle your jelly into your jars, cover and seal. Allow to cool to room temperature. Make sure your jars are hot when you fill them (this helps create that airtight seal that prevents your jam from going off). Store in a cool dark place, once opened, refrigerate and use within 3 months.

**Reserve your cooked apple to make delicious, homemade Pâtes de Fruits.

21. Tomato Chilli Jam

This stuff will knock your socks off. Perfect in any sandwich, stirred into fried rice, or as my good friend Zoe says "Try it under a fried egg. They'll never be the same without it!"

Tomato Chilli Jam

Makes about 500g

500g Tomatoes

30g fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped

2tbsp balsamic vinegar

2 chillies (I used Scotch Bonnet peppers), finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

300g sugar

100g red wine vinegar

Put half your tomatoes in a food processor with your ginger and balsamic vinegar and puree until smooth. Roughly chop the other half of your tomatoes and add to a large casserole with remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil and simmer for 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until thickened. Check it's set by spooning a bit of hot jam onto a plate and popping it in the freezer for a minute to cool. Push the jam with your finger: if it wrinkles, it's ready.

While your jam is cooking, prepare your jam jars by removing any seals and popping the jars on a baking tray with their lids. Put the whole lot into a cold oven and turn it on to 110ºC. Bake for a minimum of 30 minutes. Sterilise any seals and equipment (ie. ladle, funnel, what have you's) by boiling them for 20-30 seconds. I like to use clamp top jars because I find them beautiful and they make for a nice container to gift jam in. Whatever you decide to use, make sure your jars are hot when you fill them (this helps create that airtight seal that prevents your jam from going off).

14. Caramelised Red Onion Chutney

Now this is the good stuff. When I lived in the UK, my flatmates and I consumed a jar of this stuff a week. We would eat it with everything. Chicken, pasta, cheese, fried rice: any dish would do. Unfortunately, it's not as easy to find in France, so I've been "forced" to make my own.

Caramelised Red Onion Chutney

Makes about 1.5kg

2kg red onions
4tbsp olive oil
4 garlic cloves
5 bay leaves
150g dark brown sugar
100g caster sugar
300g red wine
150g red wine vinegar
150g balsamic vinegar

Thinly slice your onions and add them to a large pot with your olive oil, garlic and bay leaves (if you feel like having a cry open a window or rinse your hands under cold water). Cook gently over a low heat, stirring occasionally until the onions have softened and lightly browned.

Prepare your chutney jars by removing any seals and popping the jars on a baking tray with their lids. Put the whole lot into a cold oven and turn it on to 110ºC. Bake for a minimum of 30 minutes. Sterilise any seals and equipment (ie. ladle, funnel, what have you's) by boiling them for 20-30 seconds. I like to use clamp top jars because I find them beautiful and they make for a nice container to gift chutney in. Whatever you decide to use, make sure your jars are hot when you fill them (this helps create that airtight seal that prevents your chutney from going off).

Once your onions are nice and soft, add in your sugars, wine and vinegars. Simmer for 45-60 minutes, stirring occasionally until the mixture has reduced and thickened to a jam like consistency. Fill warm jars and seal. Leave for at least 2 weeks to allow flavour to develop. Keep unopened in a dark cool place for up to 1 year, once opened, consume within 2 months.

11. Citrus Marmalade

I love the tartness of marmalade. It seems to perfectly cut through the buttery, bready goodness of whatever you may wish to spread it on. It takes a good hour of pith scraping and rind slicing to get started, but it's totally worth the effort.

Citrus Marmalade

Makes about 1.5kg or 3 medium jam jars

2 large oranges

5 clementines

4 lemons

1.5kg water

1.2kg sugar

Wash all your fruit. Cut in half and squeeze the juice over a sieve to collect any pips. Line a bowl with muslin cloth and add the contents of the sieve. Using a spoon or sharp knife, remove as much of the white pith as possible adding to the muslin. Finely slice the peel and add with the water and the collected juices to a very large casserole (minimum 5 litres). Tie a knot in your muslin cloth and add to your mixture. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer for 2 hours. Leave to cool.

Prepare your jam jars by removing any seals and popping the jars on a baking tray with their lids. Put the whole lot into a cold oven and turn it on to 110ºC. Bake for a minimum of 30 minutes (conveniently the same amount of time it takes to cook your jam). Sterilise any seals and jam equipment (ie. ladle, funnel, what have you's) by boiling them for 20-30 seconds. I like to use clamp top jars because I find them beautiful and they make for a nice container to gift jam in. Whatever you decide to use, make sure your jars are hot when you fill them (this helps create that airtight seal that prevents your jam from going off).

Remove your muslin bag and squeeze out as much liquid as possible. Place a small plate in the freezer. Add your sugar into the casserole and cook over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to a boil and cook for 20-30 minutes, until the jam reaches it's setting point of 105ºC. Otherwise spoon a bit of hot jam onto your frozen plate and leave for a minute to cool. Push the jam with your finger: if it wrinkles, it's set. Remove from heat and allow to cool for 5 minutes. Give it a little stir before filling your warm jam jars and sealing. If using screw top jars, you'll hear the jars pop into place creating that vacuum seal. Store in a cool dark place for up to a year. Once opened, refrigerate and consume within 3 months.